The colour normally matches the tie, so only black barathea wool, grosgrain or satin and white marcella, grosgrain or satin are worn, although white waistcoats used to be worn with black tie in early forms of the dress. The much larger expanse of shirt compared to a daytime waistcoat allows more variety of form, with "U" or "V" shapes possible, and there is large choice of outlines for the tips, ranging from pointed to flat or rounded. The waistcoats worn with white- and black- tie are different from standard daytime single-breasted waistcoats, being much lower in cut (with three buttons or four buttons, where all are fastened). These may either match the colour of the morning coat or be in a contrasting colour, commonly buff, dove gray, or powder blue. Double-breasted waistcoats are rare compared to single but are more commonly seen in morning dress. Waistcoats worn with lounge suits (now principally single-breasted) normally match the suit in cloth, and have four to six buttons. This convention only applies to single-breasted day waistcoats and not double breasted, evening, straight-hem or livery waistcoats that are all fully buttoned.ĭaywear Woman wearing a modern denim waistcoat. Undoing the bottom button avoids stress to the bottom button when sitting down when it is fastened, the bottom of the waistcoat pulls sideways causing wrinkling and bulging, since modern waistcoats are cut lower than old ones. It has also been suggested that the practice originated to prevent the waistcoat riding up when on horseback. Variations on this include that he forgot to fasten the lower button when dressing and this was copied. This is said to have been started by King Edward VII (then the Prince of Wales), whose expanding waistline required it. To give a more comfortable hang to the trousers, the waistcoat instead covers a pair of braces underneath it.Ī custom still sometimes practised is to leave the bottom button undone. Wearing a belt with a waistcoat, and indeed any suit, is not traditional. A bar on the end of the chain held it in place to catch the chain if it were dropped or pulled. Sometimes an extra hole was made in line with the pockets for this use. Waistcoats can also have lapels or revers depending on the style.īefore wristwatches became popular, gentlemen kept their pocket watches in the front waistcoat pocket, with the watch on a watch chain threaded through a buttonhole. In a three piece suit, the cloth used matches the jacket and trousers. Both single-breasted and double-breasted waistcoats exist, regardless of the formality of dress, but single-breasted ones are more common. Characteristics and use A young man wearing a modern waistcoatĪ waistcoat has a full vertical opening in the front, which fastens with buttons or snaps. The banyan, a garment of India, is commonly called a vest in Indian English. The term vest in European countries refers to the A-shirt, a type of athletic vest. The term vest derives from the French language veste "jacket, sport coat", the term for a vest-waistcoat in French today being gilet, the Italian language veste "robe, gown", and the Latin language vestis. The term vest is used widely in the United States and Canada, and is often worn as part of formal attire or as the third piece of a lounge suit in addition to a jacket and trousers. The term waistcoat is used in the United Kingdom and many Commonwealth countries. For white tie and black tie, it is traditionally white or black, respectively. ĭaytime formal wear and semi-formal wear commonly comprises a contrastingly coloured waistcoat, such as in buff or dove gray, still seen in morning dress and black lounge suit. Historically, the waistcoat can be worn either in the place of, or underneath, a larger coat, dependent upon the weather, wearer, and setting. Any given waistcoat can be simple or ornate, or for leisure or luxury. It is also sported as the third piece in the traditional three-piece male suit. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. JSTOR ( October 2008) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message)Ī traditional waistcoat, to be worn with a two-piece suit or separate jacket and trousersĪ waistcoat ( UK and Commonwealth, / ˈ w eɪ s( t) k oʊ t/ or / ˈ w ɛ s k ə t/ colloquially called a weskit ), or vest ( US and Canada), is a sleeveless upper-body garment. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. This article needs additional citations for verification.
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